5 Min Guide - Hallmarking
Some tools of the trade and a variety of sterling silver.
Keep hearing the phrase “hallmarking” and wonder what it means? This “5 minute guide” provides all the information you need as a customer before considering your next jewellery purchase.
What is hallmarking?
Hallmarking is the name for a set of marks applied by laser or punch to precious metals. It is carried out by the independent Assay Office who test the fineness of precious metals such as silver and gold and apply a mark to those that meet the requirements. It is a legal requirement in the UK to have precious metals hallmarked, although there are weight exemptions.
Why do we hallmark?
At its most basic, hallmarking is consumer protection. Precious metals are alloys, a mix of different metals, the exact composition of which cannot be identified just by looking - it needs sophisticated testing. Take silver for example. Fine silver is 99.9% pure silver (999) but it is far too soft to be used in jewellery. Instead it is alloyed with other metals, mostly copper, to create a 92.5% alloy - what we know and love as sterling silver (925).
The Assay Office checks the exact composition then marks the metal to guarantee it is genuine.
What are the exemptions?
Hallmarking goes by weight. Legally any item of silver weighing 7.78 grams or more requires a hallmark. The limit is 1.0 grams for gold and 0.5 grams for platinum. Anything lower does not require hallmarking to be legally sold in the UK.
When did hallmarking begin?
Hallmarking actually has quite a long history. It can be initially traced back to 1238 when King Henry III attempted to regulate the composition of silver and gold as a method of preventing fraud. In 1300 King Edward I introduced the leopard’s head mark to be stamped on goods that had been assayed - to this day London Assay Office still use the leopard head as their symbol.
Where does hallmarking take place?
At one point in time there were 10 Assay Offices in the UK, but now only 4 remain: Birmingham, Edinburgh, Sheffield and London. Each has its own distinguishing mark: anchor, castle, rose and leopard respectively.
What does a hallmark look like?
A hallmark is comprised of a series of symbols, each with their own meaning. They form an identification so you can tell who made the piece and when it was assayed, as well as the precious metal used.
The first mark is an individual maker’s mark, usually the maker’s initials in a unique shape. Next is the metal purity e.g. 925 for sterling silver (the rampant lion is for Scottish silver; the lion passant is used for English silver). There is a symbol to identify the Assay Office branch and finally a stylised letter which indicates the year of assay.
Above is an example of my personal hallmark.
Hallmarks can be applied by either laser or punch so they can vary in size and depth. Some artists like their hallmarks to be a feature of their work, but the metal needs to be very heavy otherwise it can distort when struck with a punch.
What pieces do we hallmark at Ornate Alchemy?
Because only precious metals require hallmarking it is only me (Elaine) that is registered with the Assay Office. When working exclusively in sterling silver, I only submit pieces for hallmarking that are legally required (that weigh over 7.78 grams) - this means I can keep costs down for the customer. Jewellery with small accents of gold however, are hallmarked regardless of weight - that way you can be assured you are receiving a genuine piece of solid gold, rather than a coating like gold plating or vermeil.
Copper and steel are classed as base metals and therefore don’t require hallmarking.
Where can I find more information?
All jewellers are required to display a dealer’s notice - this can be found here. Additionally more information regarding hallmarking can be found at www.edinburghassayoffice.co.uk
Hope you found this 5 minute guide helpful! Let me know if you’d like more information on this particular topic or any other topics you’d like covered on the blog.
Written by Elaine
